Dry slick dirt track setup


April 29th, by Nick Neben.

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Was it real? Was iRacing just playing with our emotions? So we waited and speculated and hoped for an answer. Finally three days later we had the answer, dirt was on its way, and the excitement exploded in the sim-racing community.

The Reason NASCAR is Going Dirt Racing, Why Bristol, and Why Now

So what is so exciting about going in circles on dirt? So if dirt racing has all of these things, will iRacing be able to give us this same experience in the sim? That is the question we have yet to have answered. Thankfully, iRacing president Tony Gardner has been generous enough to field my questions at this early stage in development to provide all of us some insight on what we can expect when the rubber meets the dirt. Q: With the current dynamic tracks heat and rubber are the two key factors that determine the grip available.

Will moisture be part of this calculation when it comes to the tackiness of dirt? Can a cushion form as this groove moves? A: The dirt, dirt physics and graphics are in the research and development phase but I will answer your question based on what we are trying to accomplish and the work done to date. The answer is yes, moisture is part of the formula for dirt and it will dynamically change as you progress in the race.

The moisture in the dirt is also dynamically impacted by the weather at the track. Also, yes, physics-wise the dirt will move around the track and grooves or ruts should form.

In fact, if you get down to the deadpan layer technically rubber could even start to build up. A cushion could or will form if that is what the racing dictates.

There will be a soft, loose layer of dirt on top and beneath that, the hard dead-pan layer as I mentioned. Graphically or visually we are also are trying to match the physics with the dirt moving and building up.

A: Yes. The weather will impact the moisture content just as it does the asphalt track surface currently. Yes, we could start every race with a different dirt state so each race could be different; but just the weather alone — if that is different— will change things in regard to racing. Frankly, that is one of several questions we are currently giving a lot of thought. We can start with the track in perfect condition for racing every time.

We have not discussed that in any detail for our official series. I just know that, in talking to the engineer, it will be possible. I tend to think we will start every dirt race in a clean state for official racing. Q: Will surface changes, such as cushions, and ruts, be a three dimensional graphic, or just a two dimensional grip change? A: It is 2D for now with we hope the illusion of 3D with moving and blending textures, but that is all in development.

What we are doing has never been done before and we are pretty excited about it. A next step if we go there as an engineering project is to provide the artists support for 3D for the dirt graphics.As a young racer I found myself listening to more seasoned drivers discussing rain lines at the track with great curiosity, like they belonged to a secret club.

I read and asked questions but found a myriad of answers that never worked that well for me. Ultimately, I determined that my own aggressive research was my best hope for a rain strategy that produced consistent results. I have a short attention span and sports that can't kill me do little to keep my interest.

I guess that's why I found racing so appealing - specifically road racing. Racing different tracks with different car set-ups will allow you to collect data at every turn and on every lap. This, in turn, revealed the lessons for rain. Nothing facilitates humility and learning better than a slippery surface, horsepower and thirty of your closest friends chasing you. In my quest to unlock the secrets of the rain line I made a fascinating discovery: there is no rain line!

That's right, no rain line! How could this be? I would like to share my logic in this article and keep the focus primarily on the art of car placement while only briefly addressing the other obvious aspects of rain racing that must support a skilled driver.

In order to go fast in the rain I recommend that you focus on the following elements:. In order to go fast you must be able to see. Who knew? Many racers use powerful blower motors to blow on the windshield as well as defog chemicals.

New windshield wipers and Rain X are also critical. I also like to force ram air onto the inside of the windshield and carry a long handled squeegee as a hacked hp tuner resort in case the other items are not effective for defog.

Car setup is often debated, but I have found that I prefer a softer set up than I use in the dry. There are many ways to achieve this, but since the weather could shift at any point in the weekend or the race, I prefer to use tire pressures and sway bar settings in order not to stray too far away from a known good dry setup.

Many will cite mathematical formulas, and insist that higher tire pressures result in higher speed hydroplaning, but I have found lower pressures yield faster laps for me because hydroplaning bgw210 fiber rarely my problem. With most R compound dot tires, I target low 30s as a ballpark hot pressure.

It is also important to realize that you will not gain as much hot air pressure during a rain race. Be aggressive during the warm up with brakes and speed in order to get maximum tire temps for the start of the race.

Escape strategies, in my opinion, separate the good drivers from the greats.Racing Glossary. A Alternate - Also called "Alternate Starter. In case a car that already qualified for the main event fails to start, the alternate can join the field and start the race.

This is the race that has the most cars, points, prize money, and is generally from 30 to 50 laps. Apex - the point in a corner where a car is closest to the inside edge of the track.

Drivers try to "hit" the apex to take the straightest line and maintain maximum speed. Arm Restraints - Straps attached to a driver's arms to limit range of motion and keep the arms and hands inside the car in case of a flip. Closed in Attrition - The rate at which cars drop out of a race.

This is due to mechanical failures or crashes. B "Backing It In" - Term used to describe a non-wing sprint car's entry into a corner. The car enters the turn in a slide with the rear of the car leading the front of the car. Back Marker - A car running at the rear of the field. Back Out - When a driver takes his foot off the gas pedal all the way or part wayhe "backs out" or "lifts. Banking - The slope of the turns, which can help cars enter and exit the corners. A flat track would have 0 degrees of banking.

A track with 15 degrees would have significant banking. The higher the degree of banking, the faster the cars will be able to travel. Bead Lock - A device used to fasten the tire bead to the wheel rim.

This helps to keep the tire on the wheel and prevents the tire from slipping. Bench Racing - Talking about racing. Binders - Brakes. Used in the expression "jumped on the binders. Black Flag - Signals a driver to pull immediately into the pits for safety reasons. Failure to enter pits after receiving the black flag can result in disqualification.

Bladder - The bladder keeps the fuel from spilling and catching fire in the case of a rear impact. Blistering - Racing tires when they overheat. The top layer of rubber comes off in small chunks.Every year kart manufacturers dream up new chassis designs to help you get around your local race track faster.

Quite often you may have heard about racers who purchased a new kart that wasn't any quicker than their old one. Maybe you are one of them. Buy and large, in the not too distant past, most karts manufactured in the United States seem to have been designed primarily for pavement use.

Many were designed to be compromise chassis that worked satisfactorily on pavement and dirt, but could have worked better on both surfaces.

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A few companies manufactured kart chassis exclusively for dirt racing and some of these seemed to be quite good. Scattered across the country are small shops and individuals who fabricated karts exclusively for racing on dirt ovals.

Many of these are some of the best machines ever built for dirt racing. Some of these become the ones that are commercially available. Currently most American kart manufacturers build offset frames for oval track racing.

Even some European companies are producing machines for this unique North American market. It's been said by some that you can make anything, including an ironing board, work on dirt if you work with it enough. Although even the best karts need to be continually monitored and adjusted, ie. How much cutting and welding can you do on a machine and still call it the same kart. This writer subscribes to the school of thought that says that if you are really serious about winning on dirt ovals, use a chassis designed for that purpose.

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The best chassis for pavement may not be the greatest on dirt and the very best dirt chassis can be much less than desirable on the hard black stuff. You don't need to be sporting the newest chassis at the track to be the quickest.

Quite often the opposite is true. A peek in the trailer of some of the hot shoes at your local track may be very revealing. Don't be surprised to find an older kart that is on it's third paint job. Please don't misunderstand me. I'm not saying all new chassis aren't good.

On the contrary, most are very good. This is only meant to convey that there is a lot of really good used equipment available that is capable of winning. An older kart that the driver is very familiar with, that has been set up well for that driver and the tracks where he competes, can out perform a newer kart that is not set up correctly. If you are buying a used kart from such a racer, the notebook full of "set-ups" that he may have could be more valuable than the kart itself, especially if your height, weight, and build are similar.

If you are a little light weight guy, and he of the large variety, the set-up notes may be less valuable, but they should be part of the deal anyway. Alright, chances are that you are new at this racing business. Maybe your budget will only allow you to have one kart and maybe 7star hd win can't be too picky about what kind it is either.

Perhaps you want it to do duty on dirt and paved tracks. Most likely, if you know what to do, you can make dream about lizard people hook-up better. The whole idea of this article is to help racers, especially those new to this stuff, figure out all the adjustments that can be made on a kart to get it do what you want it to do. This article should also dispel the myth that karts have no suspension.

They just have a differnt kind than other vehicles, one that does not use coil or leaf springs. For the sake of those who are new to racing, a definition is in order. What does it mean to "hook-up" anyway? A racing vehicle that is "hooked" is one that can go anywhere on the racing surface that the driver wants it to go, when he wants it to go there. It will do so without spinning the rear wheels and without the kart sliding or getting excessively sideways.

When a kart is really hooked the driver does not have to back off of the throttle when entering a corner. It has maximum forward motion and all of the engine's power is being used to propell the vehicle forward.Forums New posts Search forums.

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JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. Definitions of "Rubbered Up" and "Locked Down". Thread starter circleleft18 Start date Jun 11, I've been reading alot lately from the experts on here talking about track conditions being This means that the track has basically turned into a one groove race track.

Leaving a freight train type of spectacle for the crowd to see. As a driver it is fun to drive on because you have all the traction in the world, but if you get out of the groove and get in the marbles, granular dust that accumulates out side of the groovecan leave for a week full of work on your car. To sum it all up a rubbered down track leaves for no passing and one lane racing! So, your saying there is rubber stuck to the track, and you have so much grip that you can use all of your horsepower, and the guy that gets to the rubber thats stuck to the track first is going to dominate?

Dirt Car Setup Tips

A rubbered up, "locked down" track is going to be the first one into the turn. The only passing that occurs is when someone slips up out of the rubber.User Name Password Remember Me? Forgot Password? Member Join Date: Nov Posts: 4. Hey there i was wondering if anyone could help me out i've been struggling on a dry slick set up for a long time and im getting really frustrated.

This is going to be my last year racing im getting to old for the sport and i would like to go out with at least one main event win its been a goal of mine that i just can't seem to reach. What type of car? Chassis make? Type of engine? What part of the country? Tires rules? Winged sprintcar and im running a maxim chassis and i race in the mid west area under the ASCS rules. I have to be honest and say that I have only a basic understanding of winged cars.

I've had very little experience with them. I am sure there are many people on here that understand them better than I do. Maybe you could pm someone like Kevin Briscoe who is great in a wing car. I am not sure who you normally deal with, but maybe someone like Scott Benic Benic Enterprises who has a bunch of experience and has been very successful with Maxim winged cars could help you.

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Maybe the guys at Keading could offer some advice as well. They are excellent wing racers. If for some reason Maxim or the others I mentioned can't help, maybe you can explore other options. The Triple XXX website has many different chassis adjustments listed. Maybe you could learn something from their site or get one of their cars. They seem to do well in the series. I only mention them because they do seem to try and cater to the different series with information and chassis adjustments and they win a ton of races with guys who have struggled in the past with other cars.

Good Luck for ' Well I don't know anything about wing cars but my friend does. Says your not suppose too but he used the same ideas on his Wing cars that he did with his non-wing sprint cars. So, 1 I recently helped a friend in a Micro. Track got slick so we raised the wing a notch and back a notch.

You could do the same with the front wheels. That might be down low next to the burm or it could be real high. The Wet stuff looks black That sound like enough for starters Larry "O":applaud: and good luck. I'm kind of curious what others would suggest. Don't be afraid now Member Join Date: May Posts: 5. Member Join Date: Sep Posts:View Full Version : Traction on dry slick.

I am racing on a dry slick rubbered down track. How can I go about getting traction to pass instead of playing follow the leader? I race an imca stock car and need some help. Lower the cross to 49 percent. As long as you run races less than about 50 laps you will be very fast this way. Over 50 laps and you should go to regular set up.

I would like the rear of the car to stay under me. Some nights its grippy and other nights were just following the next car. Would lf rf be okay or drop more? I would like the rear of the car to stay under me The car will be fine. It is just at the other end of the spectrum. There are two ways to do everything. This would be for shorter races. Just try it. I think you will be surprised. Whatever you do, Good luck and be safe. What advantages and disadvantages are there when putting a stiffer lf spring on the car and a softer rf spring on it?

Wouldn't it hurt though if the left rear tire is lifting too much when entering the corner? How do you keep the right front from bottoming out? I've never ran anything that soft, but would like to try it.

My car rolls over now pretty far on the right front. What shock do you have to run? I run stock mount shocks on the right front, but heim shocks on the rear. Set Up Tips - Left Rear Adjustments on Dry Slick Track Going to start listing some set up tips, if you have any to share just let me know.

The #1. to our 4-bar car whenever the track would go from tacky to dry-slick (Starting from neutral bar settings, I moved both RR bars up 1. bedenica.eu › › Racing Tech › Dirt Stocks. I am racing on a dry slick rubbered down track. View Full Version: Traction on dry slick Over 50 laps and you should go to regular set up. bedenica.eu › How-To › How-To - Chassis and Suspension. 6. Dry slick, a condition in which the track has lost considerable moisture and is now very dry and slick with little grip: to g's (The.

Also wondering if on a dry slick track, should be soften off both bars or soften off the RR & stiffen the LR, as I've seen guys do both, once again our car. would like some ideas on dry/slick setup for dirt modified I have a metic They all run that hard little IMCA tire on dry-slick tracks. Also dirt tracks offer up inconsistent surfaces, Example; the traction spots on the track, Dry-Slick or very little traction avalable and rubbered.

This kind of bummed me out, because in my opinion, dry slick track Slick tracks take skill, driving ability, setup, jayydirt I'm having a prob on the small 1/4 and 3/8 dry slick tight corner tracks. Car has pretty good forward bite but losing a ton of time on. This is usually when the track is very slick. During tight and tacky conditions, a slight amount of rear steer to the left would probably improve lap times, but. I need to know if I concentrate more on tires or chassis setup too in my particular situation.

Last week in my first time in the kart it was dry. Thanks. When you say tires and prep,are you saying a softer tire and more aggressive prep. I didn't know if I should change chassis settings. This is going to be my last year racing im getting to old for the sport and i would like to go out with at least one main event win its been a.

The dirt street stock may be considered an entry level class at many tracks. However taming a street stock set up takes more than entry-level knowledge. Cars that are brought here for set up that do not meet that criteria will be If your track turns dry slick, having a larger fuel cell, like Mount all front suspension and steering components.

Pro Bandit DXS, DXT, DXR Set Up Sheet for Dirt Dry slick 1 ½” to 2”. The following set up data is a good guideline for initial set up of the XXX Raised Rail Sprint Chassis for tacky, average and dry/slick tracks. 4c-Or for Momentum Cornered tracks & a 6c-Or for Tighter Cornered Tracks. Use a Gas Shock for Maximum Braking Control & Traction on Dry Slick Tracks.